I don't know about
you, but when I think of old forests and ancient
mountains I conjure up a picture in my head.
That picture has a babbling stream cascading
over boulders down a secret and quiet little
valley. The sides of the valley are covered
in dense forests hiding the near distance in
floating vapors and shadows. It's a little damp
and everything is covered in mosses and ferns.
Mists drift along as I scramble along a simple
path heading into something I know is wonderful,
but that I also know I don't know. Legends and
fables from my childhood are conjured up and
from beneath the cool boulders and from under
the layers of leaves I can see the fanciful
beasts of my early imagination. Fairies and
elves sprite amongst the shadows in a magical
forest where the reality of the world has been
banned. And sparkling in the distance is a waterfall
spilling from a towering high cliff showering
this hidden world with an effervescent and glittering
rainbow of light. I take off my shoes and dangle
my weary feet in the pool of the waterfall lazing
in the dappled sunlight filtering in from overhead.
Well, guess what?
Its real!
Kaaterskill Falls
is a place of legend and a location of mystery.
Long known, the falls were honored by Native
Americans for their spiritual energy and as
a place of the ethereal and mystical world.
The very atmosphere of the place is evocative
of magical possibilities. American tourists
have flocked to the falls for over a hundred
years, recognizing in them the splendor that
is nature. In the 19th century, hotels and guest
houses were erected atop the falls drawing tourists
to their mystic spell.
Now, the falls have
been allowed to turn themselves back into the
primeval forests and dappled sunlight that is
their true reality. The hike up the clove to
New York's highest falls is an excursion back
into the wilds of the early Catskills. Although
not a very challenging trail, certain consideration
must be given before casually approaching the
walk. The trail is developed and maintained,
but is an experience of cambering over roots
and boulders, up and down steep slopes and coping
with rough and uneven footings. It's a short
adventure with a promise at each end.
To approach the
trail to the falls, you must first reach the
small parking area on Route 23A. Head west out
of Palenville on 23A and start climbing up into
the Catskills. A couple of miles in you will
come to a very sharp hair-pin turn, the trailhead
is now just behind you. Continue up the road
and very quickly you will see a small parking
area on the left, south side, of the road. Pull
in being careful as the parking areas is on
a turn in the road. LOCK YOUR CAR and carefully
walk back down Route 23A to the trail head.
The trail to the
falls is about a mile and a half long. Take
your time, pack a picnic and have your camera
loaded. Don't rush along the trail, take your
time, sit on a table rock, dangle your feet
and watch for the elves. In high summer, Kaaterskill
Falls is a fairly popular trail and destination,
so expect people. You'll see all kinds of people
in season, youth scrambling along, older people
carefully walking, whole families of adults
and children chatting and laughing, and as they
pass, it grows silent again, very fast, and
the splendor and magic of the place invades
in again.
Once you get to
the falls, there are a number of very large
table rocks that you can sit on and enjoy the
view. The falls is actually two cascades, the
upper and lower. Between the two is a pool carved
out that you can wade in and sit in, although
the water is colder than a you know what. When
you are sitting enjoying the sunlight remember
where you are. This is the place, this is the
actual place of Rip Van Winkle's slumbers. This
is the bowl carved out of the mountain where
the elves bowled the night away under the flickering
lights of their fires. It is on the mossy slopes
of this very little valley that time stopped
for Rip and the world passed him by. Allow yourself
the chance to join him, even if for a brief
moment. You might be surprised when you wake
up!
On your hike back
down to the road, almost as you reach the road
the steam flattens out and plummets over the
edge of a small escarpment down to the road.
Walk out into the stream over the flat rock.
Careful as you near the edge, but try and get
as close as you can. On a good warm summer afternoon
with the breeze just right, the mists come back
up over the falls and quench the heat. If you
haven't already, sit and have your picnic. On
these rocks from this place the view is extraordinary. |