In a region made
renowned in the 19th century for hospitality
and gracious resorts, the Catskill Mountain
House looms large as the most important and
most famous of the Catskill resorts. In its
day it drew potentates and presidents, millionaires
and tycoons, the upper crust of society flowed
onto and across its vast colonnaded porch overlooking
the Hudson Valley from atop its high cliffside
perch.
Everyone who was
anyone took the steamship up the Hudson to Catskill
and transferred to trains and carriages for
the precipitous climb up to the Mountain House.
People of culture and refinement flocked to
the Catskills as part of the romantic movement
centered on returning to the values of the natural
and untamed world. A natural world, quite naturally
held at bay and reformatted to the sensibilities
and customs of the era.
The reward for the
trip to the Catskill Mountain House was a resort
where you were catered to and where your every
need was seen to. But most of all, the reward
was the setting and the view. Perched high up
on the very edge of an escarpment, the Mountain
House laid claim to the most spectacular location
in all of the Catskill Mountains. Behind it
a lake lazily rested reflecting the high peaks
to the west in its blue toned waters and before
it, the very mountains themselves fell dramatically
away opening a 180 degree view stretching out
across the Hudson Valley to the Berkshires in
the east. Surrounding it was the majesty of
nature and the great primeval forests covering
the mountains.
Now long gone, the
site of the Catskill Mountain House is now little
more than a large clearing in the forest with
some old pathways and a few piles of old stone
foundations. What still draws people to the
site is the view, the incomparable view afforded
to anyone willing to take a very short walk
on a well maintained path located at the eastern
end of the North-South Lake State Campground.
When you reach the site the mountains quite
literally disappear and drip away and the mighty
Hudson River cruises along in the middle of
its wide alluvial plain. Farms dot the landscape
as you look out across to the Taconic &
Berkshire Mountains dozens of miles away in
the east. To the north lies the capital city
of Albany and south you can see down past Kingston.
On a dark night with the sky clouded over with
stars and the lights of country people flickering
below, you would swear you are floating through
the air.
This most spectacular
of all views in the Hudson Valley is easily
approached. Just enter the North-South Lake
State Campground and drive till you cannot drive
any more. You'll be in a dirt parking area past
the beaches and a sign will point you to the
path to the Catskill Mountain House. It's a
fairly short path, possibly 1/4 mile, out to
the site where you will be rewarded with the
view. With a little effort, the trail is sort
of handicapped accessible, but consideration
should be given for a little assistance over
a couple of rough spots.
Take a picnic and
sit out on the lawn or over by the edge of the
cliff. Make sure to go on a clear day. If you
arrive on a humid August afternoon, all you
will be rewarded with is a wall of gray haze
as the nearest object down in the Valley that
can be seen is quite literally over a mile away. |