In assembling
the information for our "A-List" of
places in the Hudson Valley, we've seen just
about everything and in some ways have become
just a little immune to being exceptionally
impressed. We arrived at the Peter Augustus
Jay House after months of visiting sites and
after having a lot of difficulty finding the
place. It's hard to find. When we finally discovered
the sign and made the turn into the drive we
stopped and backed up thinking we had made yet
another mistake. But no, it was the right place.
There are weeds
everywhere and the drive is all cracked and
in a terrible state of disrepair. Once you are
on the driveway you'll swear, like we did, that
this cannot be right. But keep going because
you are about to experience one of the greatest
surprises and hidden secrets in the Hudson Valley.
Just a short way
down the driveway you'll make a quick turn and
suddenly looming up before you is a towering
columned Greek Revival portico gleaming white
in the bright sun. To actually see the thing
you have to stop and lean your head out the
window and look up, you are that close. The
driveway has suddenly arrived at the front entrance
to the 1838 Peter Augustus Jay Mansion.
Peter Augustus Jay
was the son of John Jay, Founding Father, President
of the Continental Congress, negotiator of the
Treaty of Paris ending the American Revolution
and first Chief Justice of the Supreme Court.
John Jay grew up on this land as a child, then
a bucolic farm overlooking Long Island Sound.
His son, Peter Augustus, became a wealthy farmer
and businessman and created this amazing home
in 1838. Over the years it passed out of the
family until it was finally abandoned to the
elements in the middle of the 20th century.
Now the surrounding land is the Marshlands Conservancy
encompassing the great meadow between the mansion
and the sound, the largest meadow on Long Island
Sound.
The mansion and
associated carriage house now comprise the John
Jay Heritage Center which is attempting to rescue
the mansion and restore its interiors as well
as present exhibitions on the heritage of John
Jay and his impact on America. The museum exhibits
are friendly and kid accessible in an open and
towering room in the carriage house. The mansion
itself is still in ruins.
But that is part
of the amazing fun of the place. Some of the
mansion, like the front portico, have been restored
to their amazing grandeur. Just past the front
doors, you enter a home in a state of shambles.
Tattered bits of wall paper still stick to the
walls, moldings hang, interior doors are akimbo
and an overwhelming sense of neglect infuse
the place. But the truly amazing part is that
once your eyes adjust to the gloom, it's all
still there, the bits and pieces of the house
are still in place. Over the passing centuries
the details of the house are intact or sufficiently
in evidence to be brought back. Small samples
of the restoration and architectural drawings
evidence what this place will eventually be
transformed into.
The mansion is a
project caught mid-act. You are invited in to
see what is going on. Chances are that while
you are there a carpenter or glazier will be
at work shoring up as window or correcting a
lean. You have the opportunity to enter the
past and actually touch an historic restoration
as it labors fitfully along. In this house you
are literally in the presence of the founding
of American Democracy, in these rooms the great
and mighty of New York visited and talked.
Down a path in the
woods of the Marshlands Conservancy is a small
family cemetery where John Jay and Peter Jay
and their descendants are buried. One of the
Founding Fathers of America still resides at
his ancestral home, observing the passage of
time, inviting you to visit this most extraordinary
work in progress and be surprised as you round
that bend.
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